Hatley Pro Tip: Hatley Construction & Millwork is North Carolina’s FIRST Certified Platinum Wetwall Installer. We install these every week across the Triangle — if you’d rather have a pro handle it, we’re one call away.
1
What You Need
Tools
Tape measure, pencil, level, and square
Circular saw (fine-tooth blade — 48 teeth or more)
Drill and hole saw for plumbing cutouts
Caulking gun (battery-powered makes it easier)
Suction cups — makes moving panels way easier
Denatured alcohol for cleanup
Router (optional, for custom cutouts)
Comes with Your Panels
Wetwall Panel Adhesive
Color-Matched Sealant
Wear This
Dust mask, safety glasses, gloves, and closed-toe shoes. You’re cutting panels — treat it like a woodworking project.
2
Let the Panels Sit First
Before you do anything, let the panels sit flat in the room for at least 48 hours. This lets them adjust to your home’s temperature and humidity. Keep them away from outside doors or anywhere with big temp swings. Store them flat — don’t lean them.
3
Prep Your Walls
Panels go over greenboard, cement board, or existing tile. Regular drywall is fine for non-wet areas (like a wainscot), but in the shower it needs to be greenboard or cement board.
Walls need to be dry, clean, and smooth — wipe down with a damp cloth and let dry completely
Check that your walls are plumb (straight up and down) and corners are square
Take off all fixtures — faucet handles, showerheads, towel bars, soap dishes, everything
Going Over Old Tile?
You can go right over existing tile as long as it’s firmly attached. Loose tiles need to come off. If the tile is glossy, scuff it up with 60-grit sandpaper so the adhesive can grip. Wipe it clean and let it dry.
4
Dry Fit Everything First
Hold the panels up without adhesive to make sure everything fits before you commit. Start with the back wall, then do the sides.
Leave a 1/8″ gap at the bottom (between panel and tub/shower pan) — sealant fills this later
The groove side goes up first, then the tongue side slides into it
The finished edge (bullnose) faces outward at the shower entrance
If your walls aren’t perfectly square, trim the bottom of the side panels so the tops line up level
Mark where your plumbing comes through and drill those holes now — drill from the front (pretty side)
Mark the panel edges on the wall with a pencil — you’ll use these marks for adhesive placement
5
Apply the Adhesive
Do one panel at a time. Wipe the back of the panel and the wall with a damp cloth, let it dry.
Run adhesive beads on the wall (not the panel):
One vertical bead about 1½″ in from each side
One horizontal bead across the top and one across the bottom, about ½″ from the edge
Fill in the middle with evenly spaced vertical beads about 10–12″ apart
Each bead should be about ¼″ wide. The number of middle beads depends on your panel width — narrower panels need fewer, wider panels need more (4–6 total beads).
Don’t let the beads touch each other. Keep them separate so air can escape when you press the panel on.
Press the panel onto the wall and push firmly across the whole surface. Prop it or brace it until it holds on its own.
6
Connect the Panels
This is where the tongue-and-groove system does its thing.
Put adhesive on the wall for the second panel (same pattern as before)
Run a bead of color-matched sealant along the tongue of the second panel
Slide the tongue into the groove — gently. Don’t force it or hammer it
Press the whole panel firmly against the wall
Wipe any sealant that squeezes out with denatured alcohol right away
Leave a 1/8″ gap in the corners where side panels meet back panels — you’ll seal this later
Side panels go on the same way. Keep the finished edge facing out toward the shower opening.
7
Let It Cure — 24 Hours
Once all panels are up, leave them alone for 24 hours. Brace them if needed. Don’t use the shower, don’t install accessories, don’t bump them. The adhesive needs time to set.
Hatley Pro Tip: We use Schluter Jolly trim profiles at all exposed edges — sealed with color-matched SEALANT, never grout. This gives a clean, finished look that stays waterproof for the long haul.
8
Seal Everything
After 24 hours, run color-matched sealant along:
Every corner where panels meet
Every seam between panels
The gap at the bottom where panels meet the tub or shower pan
The sealant is tinted to match your panel color so it blends in. Clean up any extra with denatured alcohol.
9
Adding a Niche
Niches (the built-in shelves recessed into the wall) need to be planned before you put panels up.
Build the framing for the niche into the studs first — the niche anchors to the wall, not to the panel
The panel does NOT hold the weight — the wall behind it does
Make screw holes slightly oversized in the panel so it doesn’t crack
Seal around every screw and anchor with color-matched sealant to keep water out
Wait 24 hours after sealing before using
10
Shelves, Grab Bars & Accessories
Same rule as niches: everything mounts to the wall behind the panel, not to the panel itself.
Screws go through the panel into the stud. Seal every screw hole with sealant
Grab bars have specific load requirements — make sure your blocking can handle it
Seal around every wall anchor to keep moisture out
✓
Keeping It Clean
This is the best part — no grout to scrub. Ever.
Regular Cleaning
Warm soapy water and a sponge. That’s it. You can also use any common household cleaner — just rinse it off after.
Safe Cleaners
Windex, Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, Tilex, Fabuloso, Formula 409, Simple Green, Pine-Sol — all fine. Just use a soft sponge, not a scrub pad.
Don’t use: Scotch-Brite pads, Comet, abrasive powders, wire brushes, or harsh solvents like paint thinner. These will scratch or dull the surface.
Bleach
If you need it, dilute ¼ cup in a gallon of water and rinse right away. Don’t let it sit — it’ll discolor the surface.
Want Professional Installation?
As NC’s first Certified Platinum Wetwall Installer, we handle everything — measurement, fabrication, installation, and trim. Full 3-wall shower surround installed in hours.